socks pattern started by the end This pattern and put it over a year, but as I have commented a few times is not understood very well what I have changed a bit. Although the end is the same I think so is better understood and less messy when it comes to knowing what to do with the thread. Well, if someone uses it and sees that it is convoluted that I comment on it. The original pattern (in English) is
Wendy Johnson.
Size: median women (long)
Note: You can adjust this pattern to any size. Measure around your foot just below your fingers (the widest point). Multiply the number of inches by the number of dots per inch the shows you've done. Removes 10% of that total. Make sure the number is divisible by 4. This will make a nice sock set. This pattern is written using 60 points around the sock, with changes for 64 points in parentheses.
Sample: 8 points per inch (2.5 cm ). 2mm needles and wool socks. The distance can vary, check the shows!
Start toe
Using a provisional assembly, fit 30 (32) points (half the total circumference of the sock). I do my rough cut using a crochet chain as illustrated below:
Using wool remnants make a crocheted chain that has as many rings as many points as you will need. With wool to use up the sock 30 (32) points in the central thread of the chain links on the side of the back.
Round 1: Weave the right 29 (31) points. Move the working yarn to purl. Slide the last point of the needle without working left to right. Back to move the thread under the needle as to knit the right. Back to pass the point that is not a tissue to the left needle. Turn the work.
Round 2: Now the thread is to purl and we as a point on the right needle. Purl the rest of the points except the last. You can see how the first point (which is not tissue) has been surrounded by (or wrapped) by the thread. When is a single point on the needle left work to move the thread to weave the right. Slide the last point. Back to move the thread under the needle as to purl. Back to happen without working point to the left needle and turn the work.
3rd round: Knit the right until the left needle are 2 points, the latter is involved and the penultimate is that we're going to wrap now. To do this, proceed as in row 1: Move the thread, slide the wire back about your site and return to slide the needle point to the left. Turn the work.
4 th row: Purl until they are 2 points. Working as in round 2: Move the thread, slip the point, return the thread to your site and return to slide the needle point to the left. Turn the work.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 each time leaving a point on the left needle without knitting.
Repeat until 8 (9) points are involved with the toe of the left side, 14 (14) points remain "alive" in the center and 8 (9) points are involved right. At this point, you should be ready to work right row of the work. Already done half of your toe.
Note: The number of points to leave without working in the medium depends on how wide you want it the toe. If you want to be a bit wider, do a couple fewer short rows. If you want a little more closely, make a couple more short rows.
Now you must work the second half of the toe:
Round 1: Knit the right 29 (31) points. Move the working yarn to purl. Slide the last point of the needle without working left to right. Back to move the thread under the needle as to knit the right. Back to pass the point that is not a tissue to the left needle. Turn the work.
Wrap the next stitch (now this will have two wraps): move the thread, slip the point, move the thread again and again to slip the point across. Turn the work.
Round 2: Reverse Weave to first wrapped stitch without working. Lift the wrap and knit it together with the point. Wrap the next point and spin.
In subsequent rounds need to lift the two wraps and weaving of the right or upside down with the point.
Continue until you have worked all the points and again have 30 (32) points "alive."
When all 30 (32) points are again "live", divide these points on 2 needles.
Undo your rough cut and divided these 30 (32) points in other 2 needles. In your first turn, should raise 1 or 2 extra points between the points "live" and the points you had to cover up the mounting holes that may exist. In the next round remember to decrease again have 15 (16) points per needle.
Note: Insert the needle tip at the point you had woven into the rough cut before undoing the chain. This will make it much easier to lift the rings of the points. Normally I put the needle through four or five rings at once, get rid the chain, inserted within 4 or 5 rings, undone, until you rid the entire chain. When you rid the provisional assembly, you should have one point less than the total of those who got up and wove. You can create that extra lift at the end of the ring between the last point created with the rough cut and the first point "alive."
now have a total of 60 (64) points.
works round until the sock is 3 inches shorter than desired. Putting 30 (32) points of the instep in a needle and 30 (32) points of the heel another needle. Working in 30 (32) points short heel past the heel as follows.
Past short heel
Round 1: Weaving the right 29 (31) points . Move the working yarn to work backwards. Slide the last point of the needle without working left to right. Turn the work.
Round 2: Now the thread is to purl and we as a point on the right needle. Purl the rest of the points except the last. You can see how the first point (which is not tissue) has been surrounded by (or wrapped) by the thread. When is a single point on the left needle to move the working yarn to knit the right. Slide the last point. Volvel to move the thread under the needle as to purl. Back to happen without working point to the left needle and turn the work.
3rd round: Now the thread is to purl and we as a point on the right needle. Purl the rest points except the last. You can see how the first point (which is not tissue) has been surrounded by (or wrapped) by the thread. When is a single point on the left needle to move the working yarn to knit the right. Slide the last point. Back to move the thread under the needle as to purl. Back to happen without working point to the left needle and turn the work.
4 th round: Purl until they are 2 points. Working as in round 2: Move the thread, slip the point, return the thread to your site and return to slide the needle point to the left. Turn the work.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 each time leaving a point on the left needle without knitting.
Repeat until 8 (9) points are involved with the toe of the left side, 14 (14) points remain "alive" in the center and 8 (9) points are involved right. At this point, you should be ready to work right row of the work. Already done half of your toe.
Note: The number of points to leave without working in the medium depends on how wide want to be the toe. If you want to be a bit wider, do a couple fewer short rows. If you want a little more closely, make a couple more short rows.
now worked the second part of the heel:
Round 1: Weaving of Law 29 (31) points. Move the working yarn to purl. Slide the last point of the needle without working left to right. Back to displace the thread under the needle as to knit the right. Back to pass the point that is not a tissue to the left needle. Turn the work.
Wrap the next stitch (now this will have two wraps) and turn the work.
Round 2: Reverse Weave to first wrapped stitch without working. Lift the wrap and knit it together with the point. Wrap the next point and spin.
In subsequent rounds need to lift the two wraps and weaving of the right or upside down with the point.
Continue until you have worked all the points and again have 30 (32) points "alive."
When you live all the points again, split the points as you did with the toe. In the first round, again, should raise 1 or 2 extra points between bright points and the points for the upper left to plug the holes there. In the next round remember to decrease these points, and get back 15 (16) points per needle.
Work until the leg is the desired length to below the elastic. Work elastic to the desired height.
Note: People with wide feet and / or strong legs you can find it difficult to remove and put on socks. I sometimes when I start increasing the elastic points. If I start with 15 points per needle increased to 16 points for needle and elastic I 4r 4d. If I start with 16 points per needle increased to 18 points 3rd needle and I 3d. As you can see, is not an exact science. You can try to get what you like. FIN
This rewriting the pattern I have entered the bug and now I bought a wool to start it socks my husband in remaining next Saturday: P. Of course, this time is good wool. The others who did as they were the first and thought they would be badly made with acrylic yarn and dyed with two different (it seemed he was not going to notice, but it shows a lot).
I used the wire Bamboo English Cut, which is 60% Cotton and 40% viscose bamboo. The thread I liked it because it is slightly silky, and is pretty good at weaving. However, if I started again the jersey would not have used the same thread, because it is a bit different from what the instructions say and I had to adapt, and has been a little trouble at times. I was wrong to make the boat's center, because it should have been "negative" I've done. That is, the points in reverse, should have been the right and vice versa, but still looks good, and is seen to be a boat, so I do not have entertained it again. Here 
